After hearing about the spread of false information regarding some areas where we have permission to equip routes, I realized it needs to be addressed publicly. The local climbing community continues to grow, and new route developers seem to be appearing all the time with a drill, ambition, but no knowledge of off-limit areas, or gray areas where we should not be bolting without further debate and consideration.
Areas that are definitely OFF-LIMITS to any unauthorized route development:
Anything on the Shivwits Paiute reservation (No Trespassing, so obviously No Bolting or Climbing)
- Down-river from Shotgun Alley
- Down-canyon from Sunset Alley
Chuckawalla + Surrounding Areas (annexed by Snow Canyon State Park, must obtain permission for development)
- Some walls nearby had old, obscure routes removed at request of Red Cliffs Desert Reserve
- Cougar Cliffs
- Black Rocks
- Turtle Wall
Anasazi Canyon / Tukupetsi Trail / Santa Clara River Valley
- Bouldering in this area is allowed, but new routes in or near caves or overhangs must be checked by BLM archaeologists prior to ANY access!
- NO BOLTING – There are many cracks in this canyon which should not have any anchors installed (gear-anchors are acceptable however)
Any Caves or Overhangs
- Climbers are naturally drawn to overhangs, but this is also true of the ancient inhabitants of the area. Caves were often used as campsites or long-term villages by the Anasazi people, and other more ancient peoples. Route development, and the increased traffic associated with it, are very damaging to the fragile artifacts and evidence beneath our feet. Please do not develop any routes, or boulder problems, which are inside large caves or overhangs, without first consulting BLM archaeologists.
Private Property (without express permission)
- There are many clusters of great looking boulders, which are unfortunately on private property.
If you are in doubt about the status of an area where you wish to develop new climbing, please contact us at SUCA, by using the Contact Form, or via Facebook or Email.