New Route Development – Blacklisted Areas

After hearing about the spread of false information regarding some areas where we have permission to equip routes, I realized it needs to be addressed publicly. The local climbing community continues to grow, and new route developers seem to be appearing all the time with a drill, ambition, but no knowledge of off-limit areas, or gray areas where we should not be bolting without further debate and consideration.

 

Areas that are definitely OFF-LIMITS to any unauthorized route development:

 

  • Anything on the Shivwits Paiute reservation (No Trespassing, so obviously No Bolting or Climbing)

    • Down-river from Shotgun Alley
    • Down-canyon from Sunset Alley

 

  • Chuckawalla + Surrounding Areas (annexed by Snow Canyon State Park, must obtain permission for development)

    • Some walls nearby had old, obscure routes removed at request of Red Cliffs Desert Reserve
    • Cougar Cliffs
    • Black Rocks
    • Turtle Wall

 

  • Anasazi Canyon / Tukupetsi Trail / Santa Clara River Valley 

    • Bouldering in this area is allowed, but new routes in or near caves or overhangs must be checked by BLM archaeologists prior to ANY access!
    • NO BOLTING – There are many cracks in this canyon which should not have any anchors installed (gear-anchors are acceptable however)

 

  • Any Caves or Overhangs

    • Climbers are naturally drawn to overhangs, but this is also true of the ancient inhabitants of the area. Caves were often used as campsites or long-term villages by the Anasazi people, and other more ancient peoples. Route development, and the increased traffic associated with it, are very damaging to the fragile artifacts and evidence beneath our feet. Please do not develop any routes, or boulder problems, which are inside large caves or overhangs, without first consulting BLM archaeologists.

 

  • Private Property (without express permission)

    • There are many clusters of great looking boulders, which are unfortunately on private property.

 

 

 


 

If you are in doubt about the status of an area where you wish to develop new climbing, please contact us at SUCA, by using the Contact Form, or via Facebook or Email.

 

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Save Garth Rocks – cleanup and fundraiser

Saturday, February 9th, we are going to be holding a “Save Garth Rocks” cleanup and fundraiser event. We are still working out some of the details, I’m excited to share some of my hopes about the future of Garth with the community soon!

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BLM list of climbing locations

ClimbingAreasTable_EMSVersion

Hey all,

Above is the link to the list that the BLM gave us of all the climbing areas that they have and the GPS coordinates for each. Im posting this so that we can supplement areas not highlighted in this list. Once this list is complied we will be able to distribute it to the proper channels for SAR and dispatch for EMS.

For those of you who haven’t been made aware of this push we are doing, the backstory is as follows.  There was a climbing accident right here in town at Turtle Wall. The response time of the medical evac was disappointing. There are many factors as to why, and some that we aren”t aware of due to us not being directly involved with how the EMS is run.  However, a point that was alarming was that it took a significant amount of time for the person calling 911 to explain where Turtle Wall was (this is not an obscure crag by any means).  So in Response we are developing a list of the places we climb and their GPS location to distribute to the people that can save our lives. Once a meeting happens with these people we can see what they want as well (maps, contacts that know the area, etc.). As this develops and things happen, there will be updates with how it is all going.

So please!… post areas that aren’t on the list and GPS locations so we can have a master list to hand over.

A special thanks to Dave, Kyle, and Melissa at the BLM for getting this list to us in such a short time.

Climb safe everyone,

Jesse Eriksen

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